baggyed overnight(bad idea,woke up with wet,mushy hair)
M&S'd twice day + night on Thursday
Friday
M&Sd day and Night
Saturday applied JBCO to scalp in sections and EVCO to hair
Baggyed overnight.
Apr 29, 2011
Apr 27, 2011
Wednesday
Let EVCO sit on my hair for 1 1/2, washed out.
ACV rinse
leave ins
Scarf dry
M&S + apply JBCO to Scalp
ACV rinse
leave ins
Scarf dry
M&S + apply JBCO to Scalp
Apr 26, 2011
Sunday
Prepooed w EVCO
Washed hair w Roux Porosity Control
DCd w Porosity control conditioner
Applied leave ins
Scarf dried
M&S'd
applied JBCO to scalp
Baggyed overnight
Monday
M&S'd Morn/Night
Washed hair w Roux Porosity Control
DCd w Porosity control conditioner
Applied leave ins
Scarf dried
M&S'd
applied JBCO to scalp
Baggyed overnight
Monday
M&S'd Morn/Night
Apr 23, 2011
Saturday
M&S'd my Hair this Morning w my New Olive Oil Moisturizer
Moisturized my Hair with WN Finishing Mist and sealed w Oil Mix
Baggyed my hair and put Scarf on.
Moisturized my Hair with WN Finishing Mist and sealed w Oil Mix
Baggyed my hair and put Scarf on.
Apr 22, 2011
Fighting Breakage- Part 2
4. Relaxer overprocessing and overlap are chronic problems. Relaxing too frequently, leaving chemicals on too long and relaxing from root to tip every time are big no-no's. These practices are extremely hard on the hair. I would advise 8 weeks as a minimum for touchups because it is almost impossible to avoid chemical overlap when there is a very small amount of new growth. 10-12 weeks is optimum. When relaxing, only new growth should be processed. Root-to-tip is not "freshening" your relaxer. What that practice is doing is ensuring that you will be broke-bald at some point down the line. Whether self-relaxing or at the salon follow the recommended time to the letter. You should NOT have scabs or a burnt scalp after a relaxer!
5. Overmanipulation through the use of improper styling accessories (rubber bands, metal clips, etc), doing the same thing every day, braiding too frequently or too tightly, rough clothing and collars, clip-ins, and glue can all lead to pattern breakage. I try to switch up styling methods every day and use the most caring accessories I can find - or I make them myself. Rule of thumb: if something feels uncomfortable, is pulling or too tight it is probably doing damage. Tressbuzz leaves her hair untouched for hours and hours every single day. It is damp bunned, under a dorag, or otherwise "out of commission."
6. Breakage can begin on the inside. What goes in is what comes out. I know ladies who don't drink water and head to the couch for their happy meal every night and are reaping what they sow hair-wise. Diet and exercise are as important as any other factor when assessing hair health and breakage. Get your body hydrated and oxygenated and get that blood flowing! If you are nutritionally deficient you should look into supplementation.
7. Mineral Oil, Petroleum/Petrolatum, heavy silicones and many "styling" products can actually BLOCK moisturization and lead to breakage. Those items must be clarified away to allow the shaft access to nutrients and moisture, so check those labels and make adjustments as necessary.
Remember, hair that has been tortured in the past is subject to break as it reaches the ends. Your goal is to get increasing amounts of fresh length that has been babied and given the ultimate TLC! While some accidental breakage is unavoidable much of it can be avoided with proactive care.
5. Overmanipulation through the use of improper styling accessories (rubber bands, metal clips, etc), doing the same thing every day, braiding too frequently or too tightly, rough clothing and collars, clip-ins, and glue can all lead to pattern breakage. I try to switch up styling methods every day and use the most caring accessories I can find - or I make them myself. Rule of thumb: if something feels uncomfortable, is pulling or too tight it is probably doing damage. Tressbuzz leaves her hair untouched for hours and hours every single day. It is damp bunned, under a dorag, or otherwise "out of commission."
6. Breakage can begin on the inside. What goes in is what comes out. I know ladies who don't drink water and head to the couch for their happy meal every night and are reaping what they sow hair-wise. Diet and exercise are as important as any other factor when assessing hair health and breakage. Get your body hydrated and oxygenated and get that blood flowing! If you are nutritionally deficient you should look into supplementation.
7. Mineral Oil, Petroleum/Petrolatum, heavy silicones and many "styling" products can actually BLOCK moisturization and lead to breakage. Those items must be clarified away to allow the shaft access to nutrients and moisture, so check those labels and make adjustments as necessary.
Remember, hair that has been tortured in the past is subject to break as it reaches the ends. Your goal is to get increasing amounts of fresh length that has been babied and given the ultimate TLC! While some accidental breakage is unavoidable much of it can be avoided with proactive care.
Fighting Breakage- Part 1
f you are practicing strict TLC and STILL see alot of breakage don't panic. Breakage is not a normal state for hair. SOMETHING is causing it and it is your job to honestly analyze your regimen and lifestyle to determine what the problem is. Oftentimes the most obvious suspect is the thing you do most frequently. If that's not the cause then you can employ a process of elimination:
1. Look at how often you are using extreme-heat implements such as flatirons, curling irons, blowdryers, edge sticks, etc. Alot of relaxed ladies do not want to admit to themselves that extreme heat on top of chemically-taxed hair is more than the poor stuff can handle. Even ONE bad session with a superheated flatiron can boil your cortex away and cause weak points along the strand. Next thing you know breakage breakage breakage. Unfortunately, hair that has been taxed beyond its limit with heat tools CANNOT be "repaired." That is why you see increasing numbers of ladies with thin, see-through strands. The shaft can be temporarily filled but what is lost is lost and those weak points will most likely break. To combat this have a strict 6 month no heat period - give the hair a break and begin doubling up on moisture DC's. Incorporate coconut oil into your regimen as it is scientifically proven to help stop further protein loss.
2. Many ladies have protein overload and do not know it. Manufacturers are loading proteins into products and ladies are slathering these on DAILY. Hair does not need daily protein. Protein treatments should be isolated and tracked to avoid overload. If you are protein sensitive like Tressbuzz, you can track the breakage almost to the minute you hit overload. Characteristics of protein overload are dry, hard, brittle strands that will not "moisturize." Check each and every product for proteins so that you can dial it back to one item then add more as needed. VIEW MY BLOG ON HIDDEN PROTEINS.
3. Hair needs moisture. Water is moisture. Grease or oil is not moisture. Deprive hair from getting moisture for too long and you will have dryness and breakage. Moisturizer should be water based or have water in it and no protein. Oil is used to seal. Simple water, rosewater or distilled water sealed with oil make great moisturizers. A co-wash or two during the week goes a long way toward added moisturization.
1. Look at how often you are using extreme-heat implements such as flatirons, curling irons, blowdryers, edge sticks, etc. Alot of relaxed ladies do not want to admit to themselves that extreme heat on top of chemically-taxed hair is more than the poor stuff can handle. Even ONE bad session with a superheated flatiron can boil your cortex away and cause weak points along the strand. Next thing you know breakage breakage breakage. Unfortunately, hair that has been taxed beyond its limit with heat tools CANNOT be "repaired." That is why you see increasing numbers of ladies with thin, see-through strands. The shaft can be temporarily filled but what is lost is lost and those weak points will most likely break. To combat this have a strict 6 month no heat period - give the hair a break and begin doubling up on moisture DC's. Incorporate coconut oil into your regimen as it is scientifically proven to help stop further protein loss.
2. Many ladies have protein overload and do not know it. Manufacturers are loading proteins into products and ladies are slathering these on DAILY. Hair does not need daily protein. Protein treatments should be isolated and tracked to avoid overload. If you are protein sensitive like Tressbuzz, you can track the breakage almost to the minute you hit overload. Characteristics of protein overload are dry, hard, brittle strands that will not "moisturize." Check each and every product for proteins so that you can dial it back to one item then add more as needed. VIEW MY BLOG ON HIDDEN PROTEINS.
3. Hair needs moisture. Water is moisture. Grease or oil is not moisture. Deprive hair from getting moisture for too long and you will have dryness and breakage. Moisturizer should be water based or have water in it and no protein. Oil is used to seal. Simple water, rosewater or distilled water sealed with oil make great moisturizers. A co-wash or two during the week goes a long way toward added moisturization.
Friday
Moisturized with Motions Nourish Leave in
sealed with EVOO this Morning
dyed hair with Henna
sat w Heat under dryer for 30 min
Rinsed
washed w Moisturizing shampoo
DC w Mane and Tail under dryer w Heat for 20 minutes
ACV rinse
Applied leave ins (Motions Nourish)
Scarf Dry w Heat
Moisturize with Water &Seal w EVOO
Apply JBCO to Scalp in sections.
sealed with EVOO this Morning
dyed hair with Henna
sat w Heat under dryer for 30 min
Rinsed
washed w Moisturizing shampoo
DC w Mane and Tail under dryer w Heat for 20 minutes
ACV rinse
Applied leave ins (Motions Nourish)
Scarf Dry w Heat
Moisturize with Water &Seal w EVOO
Apply JBCO to Scalp in sections.
Apr 21, 2011
Thursday
Moisturized hair with Motions Nourish Leave In and Sprayed with Water this Afternoon. Did not seal
Tied down with Scarf
and it's 4pm and already dry almost! LOL I should've sealed.
Tied down with Scarf
and it's 4pm and already dry almost! LOL I should've sealed.
Apr 20, 2011
Wednesday
My Porosity issues are being worked out. That ACV rinse helped so much I cannot stop raving about it. My hair can hold moisture now and it feels so soft! I notice such a difference. I did the Strand test and it stretched and then broke so that means MORE PROTEIN, so I am moisturizing with Motions Nourish Leave in and sealing with my Oil mixture.
April 19th,2011
My hair was pretty nice and moisturized yesterday. I took out my Ponytail and it was very very lightly damp. I sprayed it at night with Water (didn't seal) and tied my hair down with scarf.
Apr 18, 2011
Changes already!
Ive already noticed that my Hair has absorbed the moisture from last night! My hair is nearly dry today and that's great! I used to moisturize and it would stay wet for days. The ACV did the trick I believe.
Sunday Wash Day!
Pre Pooed w Mane and Tail for 20 min w heat
Shampooed with NTM
Hot Oil treatment with EVOO
ACV rinse
Applied Leave ins
Scarf dry
Moisturized w WN
Sealed w EVOO
Shampooed with NTM
Hot Oil treatment with EVOO
ACV rinse
Applied Leave ins
Scarf dry
Moisturized w WN
Sealed w EVOO
Apr 16, 2011
Porosity Test
Porosity refers to the hair's ability, or inability, to absorb water or chemicals deep into the cuticle layers and cortex. All hair is naturally porous and somewhat permeable to water.
Low or "poor porosity" refers to hair that does not readily absorb moisture and resists chemical treatments. Poor porosity is not exactly a problem that should cause you great concern. It is, however, ideal to have hair that falls somewhere in the middle of the two porosity extremes: hair with good porosity that retains moisture well and accepts chemical treatments.
The Sponge
Our hair has the ability to absorb up to 50% of its weight in water! This absorption and lengthening is why wet hair feels heavier than dried hair. Think of a sponge. When the sponge is fresh and new, it is able to absorb a good amount of water and hold the moisture inside very well. As the sponge ages, the pores become distorted, the fabric of the sponge is weaker, and it begins to lose its shape. Because the old sponge cannot hold the amount of water it once could, it is said to be more porous or have higher porosity than the new sponge.
The following questions will help you determine whether or not your hair is overly porous:
Does your hair continuously soak in moisture without ever actually feeling moisturized?
Is your hair chronically dry despite your best conditioning efforts?
Does your hair appear/feel puffy, frizzy, swollen, or tough to the touch?
Does your hair have a natural, reddish toned cast to it that is usually more pronounced in spring and summer time?
Does your hair hold styles and curl well?
If you've answered yes to any of the above hair characteristics, and these characteristics appear more pronounced toward the ends of your hair, you may have a problem with your hair's porosity level.
Causes of Porosity Problems
There are two main conditions that aggravate the physical integrity of the cuticle layer, and thus, the hair's porosity level.
The first is soundness of each cuticle scale along the hair strand.The soundness of the cuticle scales refers to the smoothness of each individual hair scale surface. Weak or damaged scales are often worn, cracked, and may even have holes in them. The more damaged an individual scale is, the more porous that scale will be.
The second is the general spatial arrangement of the cuticle scales relative to one another. Lifted scales are porous simply because they are not lying flat against the others. They will let moisture out easily. The unavoidable constant lifting and closing of the cuticle layers over time through regular washing, conditioning, and chemical processing increases the overall porosity of the hair. The ends of the hair are typically the most porous because the cuticle layers in this region have simply been opening and closing the longest. If the individual scales are porous, and the scales are lifted up and away from one another, the porosity situation is compounded.
So what exactly damages the cuticles in those ways?
Specifically, hair porosity is affected by excessive exposure to:
mechanical and heat abuse from combs, brushes, and heat styling tools,
and the continued use of sodium lauryl or ammonium lauryl sulfate-rich shampoos.
Porosity Problems for the Relaxed and Color Treated
Relaxing or colored treating the hair with chemicals forces the cuticle layers up and open. Unfortunately, when this happens, these chemical treatments increase the porosity of the hair by both means: by degrading the cuticle layers and causing them to lift dramatically. In time, the cuticle layers do eventually close on their own, but if the damage is repeated too often by either back to back coloring jobs, heat overuse, or relaxing too frequently those cuticle layers may never close fully again. For this reason, relaxed and color treated individuals should be extra diligent about managing their hair's porosity.
Porosity Tests
It is best to measure your level of porosity on freshly cleaned and dried hair.
Test 1: Wet your hair. Before you start to shampoo your hair, notice how long it takes for your hair to actually feel soaked and fully saturated with water. Hair that "wets" easily is typically porous. If your hair takes quite some time to actually get fully wet, your hair is less porous. (Or your hair could be coated with heavy oils and other products!) As your hair dries (air dry), note how quickly the drying takes place. Porous hair dries very quickly, and in some cases, the ends of the hair may be dry before your body is fully dried! Hair that takes longer to dry is typically less porous.
On fully dried hair, note whether your hair feels rough and tangles easily. Hair that "catches" on itself, does not move well, and tangles easily is usually porous, or is in need of a trim.
Test 2: Gently hold strands of your dry hair between your index finger and thumb, and then slowly slide your fingers along the length of the strand. You should be moving from the scalp to the ends. If you feel an overall uneven texture as you move along down the shaft, your hair is slightly porous.
Test 3: Take a few strands of "harvested" hair (shed hair from your comb, hair brush, etc.) and place them in a bowl of water. If the hair sinks in less than a minute or two, it is porous. The sooner your hair sinks, the more porous it is. If only one part of the strand sinks, you have a spotty porosity problem. This is not uncommon.
Once you have performed one or more of the porosity tests and believe that your hair is indeed porous, read Part 2 of this Porosity Series to learn ways that you can treat your own porosity issues.
Low or "poor porosity" refers to hair that does not readily absorb moisture and resists chemical treatments. Poor porosity is not exactly a problem that should cause you great concern. It is, however, ideal to have hair that falls somewhere in the middle of the two porosity extremes: hair with good porosity that retains moisture well and accepts chemical treatments.
The Sponge
Our hair has the ability to absorb up to 50% of its weight in water! This absorption and lengthening is why wet hair feels heavier than dried hair. Think of a sponge. When the sponge is fresh and new, it is able to absorb a good amount of water and hold the moisture inside very well. As the sponge ages, the pores become distorted, the fabric of the sponge is weaker, and it begins to lose its shape. Because the old sponge cannot hold the amount of water it once could, it is said to be more porous or have higher porosity than the new sponge.
The following questions will help you determine whether or not your hair is overly porous:
Does your hair continuously soak in moisture without ever actually feeling moisturized?
Is your hair chronically dry despite your best conditioning efforts?
Does your hair appear/feel puffy, frizzy, swollen, or tough to the touch?
Does your hair have a natural, reddish toned cast to it that is usually more pronounced in spring and summer time?
Does your hair hold styles and curl well?
If you've answered yes to any of the above hair characteristics, and these characteristics appear more pronounced toward the ends of your hair, you may have a problem with your hair's porosity level.
Causes of Porosity Problems
There are two main conditions that aggravate the physical integrity of the cuticle layer, and thus, the hair's porosity level.
The first is soundness of each cuticle scale along the hair strand.The soundness of the cuticle scales refers to the smoothness of each individual hair scale surface. Weak or damaged scales are often worn, cracked, and may even have holes in them. The more damaged an individual scale is, the more porous that scale will be.
The second is the general spatial arrangement of the cuticle scales relative to one another. Lifted scales are porous simply because they are not lying flat against the others. They will let moisture out easily. The unavoidable constant lifting and closing of the cuticle layers over time through regular washing, conditioning, and chemical processing increases the overall porosity of the hair. The ends of the hair are typically the most porous because the cuticle layers in this region have simply been opening and closing the longest. If the individual scales are porous, and the scales are lifted up and away from one another, the porosity situation is compounded.
So what exactly damages the cuticles in those ways?
Specifically, hair porosity is affected by excessive exposure to:
mechanical and heat abuse from combs, brushes, and heat styling tools,
and the continued use of sodium lauryl or ammonium lauryl sulfate-rich shampoos.
Porosity Problems for the Relaxed and Color Treated
Relaxing or colored treating the hair with chemicals forces the cuticle layers up and open. Unfortunately, when this happens, these chemical treatments increase the porosity of the hair by both means: by degrading the cuticle layers and causing them to lift dramatically. In time, the cuticle layers do eventually close on their own, but if the damage is repeated too often by either back to back coloring jobs, heat overuse, or relaxing too frequently those cuticle layers may never close fully again. For this reason, relaxed and color treated individuals should be extra diligent about managing their hair's porosity.
Porosity Tests
It is best to measure your level of porosity on freshly cleaned and dried hair.
Test 1: Wet your hair. Before you start to shampoo your hair, notice how long it takes for your hair to actually feel soaked and fully saturated with water. Hair that "wets" easily is typically porous. If your hair takes quite some time to actually get fully wet, your hair is less porous. (Or your hair could be coated with heavy oils and other products!) As your hair dries (air dry), note how quickly the drying takes place. Porous hair dries very quickly, and in some cases, the ends of the hair may be dry before your body is fully dried! Hair that takes longer to dry is typically less porous.
On fully dried hair, note whether your hair feels rough and tangles easily. Hair that "catches" on itself, does not move well, and tangles easily is usually porous, or is in need of a trim.
Test 2: Gently hold strands of your dry hair between your index finger and thumb, and then slowly slide your fingers along the length of the strand. You should be moving from the scalp to the ends. If you feel an overall uneven texture as you move along down the shaft, your hair is slightly porous.
Test 3: Take a few strands of "harvested" hair (shed hair from your comb, hair brush, etc.) and place them in a bowl of water. If the hair sinks in less than a minute or two, it is porous. The sooner your hair sinks, the more porous it is. If only one part of the strand sinks, you have a spotty porosity problem. This is not uncommon.
Once you have performed one or more of the porosity tests and believe that your hair is indeed porous, read Part 2 of this Porosity Series to learn ways that you can treat your own porosity issues.
Porosity Training- Part 2
Solutions for Correcting Your Porous Hair!
The issues of individual scale damage and raised cuticles are the primary issues associated with porous hair. If you can somehow patch the scale damage and close these cuticles layers, even a little, you will resolve a majority of your hair porosity issues.
Solution 1.) Protein Treatments for Porous Hair
The best , and perhaps easiest, way to patch up damaged cuticle layers is simply through light protein conditioning. Protein fills in gaps, binds to damaged places, and mends individual exterior scales along the cuticle. Regular protein conditioning improves the hair's porosity by reinforcing the cuticle layers and allowing the hair shaft to better hold on to the moisture it is given. You don't want to get too excited with the protein though because this can make the hair even drier. Products with wheat protein, like Kenra Moisturizing Conditioner, are good for shoring up the cuticle without leaving the hair too crunchy. Other more protein intensive treatments for correcting porous hair are Aphogee 2 Minute Keratin Reconstructor, CHI Keratin Mist, Motions CPR, and Organic Root Stimulator Mayo Treatment, and Cantu Shea Butter leave in conditioner. Remember, nothing can PERMANENTLY repair hair that is damaged, but treatments can go a long way for shoring up the weak spots and temporarily managing problems.
Solution 2.)Clear or Colored Rinses for Repairing Scale Damage and Porosity
Temporary clear or colored rinses also contain proteins that bind to and patch up the hair shaft. These rinses also give you the benefit of enhancing your current hair color, or adopting a temporary change. Clear rinses are best if you'd rather keep your current color and just add an enhanced element of shine. Sebastian's Colourshines and Jazzings all make great hair rinses that will help reduce your hair's porosity.
Solution 3.)Acidic Conditioners for Combating Overly Porous Hair
Some porosity problems can be temporarily resolved by applying a low pH solution or product, usually a conditioner. Most good deep conditioners are acidic products that will help restore and temporarily repair the cuticle layers. After treating the hair with a protein source listed in solution #1, your hair should be ready to receive and maintain the moisture you give it from your regular, weekly moisturizing deep conditioner.
When searching for a good acidic shampoo and conditioner brand for your porous hair, check the aisles for formulas for color treated hair. Typically, color treated products the most acidic. These products are extra gentle and help maintain the tightness of the cuticle layers in order to preserve hair colors and keep your vibrant shades from "leaching." Even if your hair is not color-treated, and you suspect that your hair may be porous, keep an eye out for products formulated for damaged or color treated hair.
Solution 4.)Acidic Rinses for Restoring Proper Cuticle Orientation
A weekly acidic rinse with Apple cider vinegar (ACV) is a common home remedy for treating porous hair. Simply combine 1/4 cup of apple cider vinegar with 2 cups of cool water. Poor this mixture over the hair as a final rinse after shampooing and conditioning are complete. Rinse thoroughly in cool water. This acidic rinse will temporarily reduce porosity by constricting the cuticle scales. The ACV rinse will also enhance your hair's shine, eliminate tangles, and increase manageability.
ACV rinses should never make your hair feel hard. If the ACV rinse makes your hair feel hard or tangly after rinsing, your mixture needs to be diluted with more water.
The issues of individual scale damage and raised cuticles are the primary issues associated with porous hair. If you can somehow patch the scale damage and close these cuticles layers, even a little, you will resolve a majority of your hair porosity issues.
Solution 1.) Protein Treatments for Porous Hair
The best , and perhaps easiest, way to patch up damaged cuticle layers is simply through light protein conditioning. Protein fills in gaps, binds to damaged places, and mends individual exterior scales along the cuticle. Regular protein conditioning improves the hair's porosity by reinforcing the cuticle layers and allowing the hair shaft to better hold on to the moisture it is given. You don't want to get too excited with the protein though because this can make the hair even drier. Products with wheat protein, like Kenra Moisturizing Conditioner, are good for shoring up the cuticle without leaving the hair too crunchy. Other more protein intensive treatments for correcting porous hair are Aphogee 2 Minute Keratin Reconstructor, CHI Keratin Mist, Motions CPR, and Organic Root Stimulator Mayo Treatment, and Cantu Shea Butter leave in conditioner. Remember, nothing can PERMANENTLY repair hair that is damaged, but treatments can go a long way for shoring up the weak spots and temporarily managing problems.
Solution 2.)Clear or Colored Rinses for Repairing Scale Damage and Porosity
Temporary clear or colored rinses also contain proteins that bind to and patch up the hair shaft. These rinses also give you the benefit of enhancing your current hair color, or adopting a temporary change. Clear rinses are best if you'd rather keep your current color and just add an enhanced element of shine. Sebastian's Colourshines and Jazzings all make great hair rinses that will help reduce your hair's porosity.
Solution 3.)Acidic Conditioners for Combating Overly Porous Hair
Some porosity problems can be temporarily resolved by applying a low pH solution or product, usually a conditioner. Most good deep conditioners are acidic products that will help restore and temporarily repair the cuticle layers. After treating the hair with a protein source listed in solution #1, your hair should be ready to receive and maintain the moisture you give it from your regular, weekly moisturizing deep conditioner.
When searching for a good acidic shampoo and conditioner brand for your porous hair, check the aisles for formulas for color treated hair. Typically, color treated products the most acidic. These products are extra gentle and help maintain the tightness of the cuticle layers in order to preserve hair colors and keep your vibrant shades from "leaching." Even if your hair is not color-treated, and you suspect that your hair may be porous, keep an eye out for products formulated for damaged or color treated hair.
Solution 4.)Acidic Rinses for Restoring Proper Cuticle Orientation
A weekly acidic rinse with Apple cider vinegar (ACV) is a common home remedy for treating porous hair. Simply combine 1/4 cup of apple cider vinegar with 2 cups of cool water. Poor this mixture over the hair as a final rinse after shampooing and conditioning are complete. Rinse thoroughly in cool water. This acidic rinse will temporarily reduce porosity by constricting the cuticle scales. The ACV rinse will also enhance your hair's shine, eliminate tangles, and increase manageability.
ACV rinses should never make your hair feel hard. If the ACV rinse makes your hair feel hard or tangly after rinsing, your mixture needs to be diluted with more water.
Porosity Training- Part 1
Yes! It's Porous now Help Me Fix It!
Hair porosity refers to the hair's ability, or inability, to absorb water or chemicals deep into the cortex. Unfortunately, damage to the hair shaft can affect the hair's level of porosity. Too much porosity reduces the hair's ability to retain moisture, move well, and fight breakage. This article will help you understand why you should be concerned about your hair's porosity levels. It will also describe 4 simple ways that you can correct your hair's porosity issues.
Why Should You Correct Your Hair's Porosity?
In Part 1 of the Porosity Series, I explained that the more damage the cuticle has endured, the greater the hair's porosity will be. Moisture absorption and moisture loss are the primary concerns for porous hair.
Moisture Absorption and Loss
Though porous hair often feels dry and parched, it can absorb LOTS and LOTS of water. Normal hair can absorb roughly 30% of its weight in water when washed, while extremely porous hair can absorb up to 40-50% of its weight in water! Generally, the more porous your hair is, the more water or moisture it tends to absorb. Seems great, right? Not quite. There are two downsides to this high level of water absorption in hair with high porosity:
1.) High levels of moisture loss are also experienced over time. Highly porous hair absorbs more water when wet, but also loses even more as it dries. The moisture loss is a result of a shoddy cuticle layer barrier. Water flows in, and flows right on out just as easily. The cuticles are so lifted or damaged that they cannot adequately hold the moisture inside. This is why when porous hair is fully dried, it often feels swollen, puffy, and rough to the touch.
2.) .Hair lengthens as it absorbs water. The more water the hair absorbs, the more the hair will have to stretch to accommodate the water. Once the hair is stretched beyond its comfortable limit of roughly 30%, it grows weaker and weaker. If this process occurs too frequently, damage to the cuticle layer ensues, cortical damage follows, and then the hair eventually breaks under the stress. This is why it is also NOT advisable to keep the hair in a perpetual state of dampness. Moisture is beneficial to the hair, but too much moisture will damage and place stress on it.
Hair porosity refers to the hair's ability, or inability, to absorb water or chemicals deep into the cortex. Unfortunately, damage to the hair shaft can affect the hair's level of porosity. Too much porosity reduces the hair's ability to retain moisture, move well, and fight breakage. This article will help you understand why you should be concerned about your hair's porosity levels. It will also describe 4 simple ways that you can correct your hair's porosity issues.
Why Should You Correct Your Hair's Porosity?
In Part 1 of the Porosity Series, I explained that the more damage the cuticle has endured, the greater the hair's porosity will be. Moisture absorption and moisture loss are the primary concerns for porous hair.
Moisture Absorption and Loss
Though porous hair often feels dry and parched, it can absorb LOTS and LOTS of water. Normal hair can absorb roughly 30% of its weight in water when washed, while extremely porous hair can absorb up to 40-50% of its weight in water! Generally, the more porous your hair is, the more water or moisture it tends to absorb. Seems great, right? Not quite. There are two downsides to this high level of water absorption in hair with high porosity:
1.) High levels of moisture loss are also experienced over time. Highly porous hair absorbs more water when wet, but also loses even more as it dries. The moisture loss is a result of a shoddy cuticle layer barrier. Water flows in, and flows right on out just as easily. The cuticles are so lifted or damaged that they cannot adequately hold the moisture inside. This is why when porous hair is fully dried, it often feels swollen, puffy, and rough to the touch.
2.) .Hair lengthens as it absorbs water. The more water the hair absorbs, the more the hair will have to stretch to accommodate the water. Once the hair is stretched beyond its comfortable limit of roughly 30%, it grows weaker and weaker. If this process occurs too frequently, damage to the cuticle layer ensues, cortical damage follows, and then the hair eventually breaks under the stress. This is why it is also NOT advisable to keep the hair in a perpetual state of dampness. Moisture is beneficial to the hair, but too much moisture will damage and place stress on it.
Porosity! Thats it!
I was wondering why I've been on my HJ for 2 mths and my hair is still breaking. Moisturized everyday and still seems like my hair couldn't hold moisture. It's my Porosity! I have High Porosity and I'm going to fix it
Apr 14, 2011
Wednesday and Thursday 4/14/11
4/12/2011
sprayed some Motions nourish leave in
baggyed for about 2 hours
and then tied up hair w scarf
4/13/2011
Moisturized in Morning w ORS Moist Lotion (thank God its done! Never buying that crap again)
Did not seal
Moisturized w WN
Sealed w Oil mix
sprayed some Motions nourish leave in
baggyed for about 2 hours
and then tied up hair w scarf
4/13/2011
Moisturized in Morning w ORS Moist Lotion (thank God its done! Never buying that crap again)
Did not seal
Moisturized w WN
Sealed w Oil mix
Apr 12, 2011
Hard Protein Treatment(evry 6 weeks) + Wash day
Applied ORS Hair Mayo+ EVOO to Dry hair.
Sat under hot dryer for 20 min
Washed hair w Neutrogena Triple Moisture Shampoo
DC with HE Long Term Conditioner/Small amount of Suave Tropical Coconut Conditioner w Heat for 20-25 min
Apply Leave ins
Scarf Dry
Moisturize w NTM
Seal w Oil Mix
Apply small amount of JBCO to my Scalp
Sat under hot dryer for 20 min
Washed hair w Neutrogena Triple Moisture Shampoo
DC with HE Long Term Conditioner/Small amount of Suave Tropical Coconut Conditioner w Heat for 20-25 min
Apply Leave ins
Scarf Dry
Moisturize w NTM
Seal w Oil Mix
Apply small amount of JBCO to my Scalp
Retaining Hair Length
So I would just like to put in my two cents based on my experience, research, and knowledge on black hair, as to why our hair is really breaking and what you can do to stop it.
1. Over processed hair strands
you are either keeping your relaxers in too long, or using too strong of a relaxer, or are not properly neutralizing your relaxed hair when you shampoo out.
Solution
skip the "Super" perm (under processed is better than over processed)
You shouldn't be relaxing in increments less than 8 weeks. (10 wks in my opinion)
If possible i highly recommend learning to self-relax (it's way cheaper and you can control the timing), or speak up at the salon.
When you're washing out your relaxer, the proper protocol is to lather and rinse 3 times; make sure the last time you leave the lather in for 5 minutes to neutralize the relaxer in the inner cortex of the hair strands. Then DEEP condition to restore what the relaxer took away.
Stretch your relaxers to avoid overlapping and scalp irritation. another trick i learned is to coat your tresses and with grease or a heavy pomade before heading to the salon. it may annoy you stylist but your hair will thank you
2. Your hair is dry
most common: in most cases you can tell your hair is dry just by looking at it, but for more concrete evidence do a wet strand test (Take a wet strand of your hair that came out in the shower and pull it gently, if it breaks without stretching, your hair is dry. Properly moisturized hair will stretch slightly before recoiling) . So many black women avoid moisture like the plague to avoid messing up their "do's" but they pay the price in dry brittle hair
Solution
Moisturize your hair DAILY with a small amount of water based moisturizer (water in one of the first 3 ingredients listed) and seal with a small amount of oil, paying close attention to your ends. Naturals can just use water as a moisturizer.
Deep condition once a week. when you're moisture levels go up you can get lazy and do it every other week.
Put down the flat iron- heat stlying is the fastest way to lose moisture in your hair
Avoid shampoos with sulfates, silicones, alcohols, and detergents. i recommend cowashing at least once a week in the beginning.
Water is your friend. drink 6-8 glasses a day (or at least try)
3. Over manipulation
You're combing your hair too frequently
You're using damaging styling tools (fine tooth combs, hard brushes, elastic hair bands)
You're constantly using direct heat (blow dryers, flat irons, hot combs, curling irons)
You're putting too much product
Solution
Only use a wide tooth seamless comb to detangle
never brush wet hair
Always wear a silk scarf or bonnet to bed to avoid unnecessary detangling
naturals make sure you seperate your hair into at least 4 sections when you detangle
go easy on the product. less is more. you shouldn't see it sitting all greasy on the strands
Baby your ends.
Avoid fine tooth combs
Lack of protein
Whether its lack of protein in your diet or hair regimen you can tell your hair is lacking protein by doing a wet stand test (take a wet strand of hair and pull gently if it stretches and stretches without bouncing back you need protein.
Solution
try and eat 50g of protein a day
start with a light protein treatment (Nexxus keraphix, an egg, aphogee 2 min) since everyone's hair doesn't respond well to harsh amounts of protein. If that isn't enough you can try something harder (Nexxus emergencee, Aphogee 2 step)
Other Tips
The term "dead hair" is misleading. Technically all hair is dead, but when we hear the words "Dead ends" it makes us want to grab for the scissors. Not so fast, most damage done to hair can be repaired with some deep conditioning and TLC. And unlearn the myth that trimming hair makes it grow faster. if that were true many of us would have hair down to the floor by now. Trimming is to make sure that split hair don't unravel up the shaft and cause more damage. Learn how to properly dust your hair and you can avoid trimming completely. and split ends can be temporarily remedied by a hot oil treatment long enough for some new growth to roll in.
Don't follow every hair trend. I've been a "Long hair connoisseur" for some time, and i've seen every hair fad come and go from fabric softener to horse lotion. Before you jump on a hair bandwagon, get your regimen straight FIRST. because nothing else matters if you can't retain your length.
Keep it simple sistah: your regimen doesn't have to be super complex. stick to the 3c's (http://www.longhairdontcare.net/long_hair_dont_care-deleted-2009062...) you will be fine. Simpler is better, trust me! especially in the beginning. you don't want to overwhelm yourself and then give up before you even try.
Get educated- As much as i love this site, it's pretty much the blind leading the blind around here. i mean, it's hard to separate real information from people who just heard "they auntie and em" say something about making your hair care. visit www.longhaircareforum.com if you really want to learn about hair care. The have a $7 membership fee to post in the forum (which explains why everyone on these is really passionate about hair care, and not just passing through.) but it costs NOTHING to just lurk around the message boards and soak up the info.
Don't be a product junkie. over time you will learn what your hair likes, but in the meantime be informed when buying your hair products. know what you need before you walk into the store so the shiny labels don't beguile you. and KNOW what ingredients you should be avoiding (mineral oil, petroleum, silicone, sulfate, etc)
Spread the knowledge! In most cases it takes just weeks to get healthy hair, and months (maybe a year or two) to get the length you desire. Every girl deserves to have long beautiful hair. so tell your friends what you know, and let's shatter the myth that black girls can't have long hair.
1. Over processed hair strands
you are either keeping your relaxers in too long, or using too strong of a relaxer, or are not properly neutralizing your relaxed hair when you shampoo out.
Solution
skip the "Super" perm (under processed is better than over processed)
You shouldn't be relaxing in increments less than 8 weeks. (10 wks in my opinion)
If possible i highly recommend learning to self-relax (it's way cheaper and you can control the timing), or speak up at the salon.
When you're washing out your relaxer, the proper protocol is to lather and rinse 3 times; make sure the last time you leave the lather in for 5 minutes to neutralize the relaxer in the inner cortex of the hair strands. Then DEEP condition to restore what the relaxer took away.
Stretch your relaxers to avoid overlapping and scalp irritation. another trick i learned is to coat your tresses and with grease or a heavy pomade before heading to the salon. it may annoy you stylist but your hair will thank you
2. Your hair is dry
most common: in most cases you can tell your hair is dry just by looking at it, but for more concrete evidence do a wet strand test (Take a wet strand of your hair that came out in the shower and pull it gently, if it breaks without stretching, your hair is dry. Properly moisturized hair will stretch slightly before recoiling) . So many black women avoid moisture like the plague to avoid messing up their "do's" but they pay the price in dry brittle hair
Solution
Moisturize your hair DAILY with a small amount of water based moisturizer (water in one of the first 3 ingredients listed) and seal with a small amount of oil, paying close attention to your ends. Naturals can just use water as a moisturizer.
Deep condition once a week. when you're moisture levels go up you can get lazy and do it every other week.
Put down the flat iron- heat stlying is the fastest way to lose moisture in your hair
Avoid shampoos with sulfates, silicones, alcohols, and detergents. i recommend cowashing at least once a week in the beginning.
Water is your friend. drink 6-8 glasses a day (or at least try)
3. Over manipulation
You're combing your hair too frequently
You're using damaging styling tools (fine tooth combs, hard brushes, elastic hair bands)
You're constantly using direct heat (blow dryers, flat irons, hot combs, curling irons)
You're putting too much product
Solution
Only use a wide tooth seamless comb to detangle
never brush wet hair
Always wear a silk scarf or bonnet to bed to avoid unnecessary detangling
naturals make sure you seperate your hair into at least 4 sections when you detangle
go easy on the product. less is more. you shouldn't see it sitting all greasy on the strands
Baby your ends.
Avoid fine tooth combs
Lack of protein
Whether its lack of protein in your diet or hair regimen you can tell your hair is lacking protein by doing a wet stand test (take a wet strand of hair and pull gently if it stretches and stretches without bouncing back you need protein.
Solution
try and eat 50g of protein a day
start with a light protein treatment (Nexxus keraphix, an egg, aphogee 2 min) since everyone's hair doesn't respond well to harsh amounts of protein. If that isn't enough you can try something harder (Nexxus emergencee, Aphogee 2 step)
Other Tips
The term "dead hair" is misleading. Technically all hair is dead, but when we hear the words "Dead ends" it makes us want to grab for the scissors. Not so fast, most damage done to hair can be repaired with some deep conditioning and TLC. And unlearn the myth that trimming hair makes it grow faster. if that were true many of us would have hair down to the floor by now. Trimming is to make sure that split hair don't unravel up the shaft and cause more damage. Learn how to properly dust your hair and you can avoid trimming completely. and split ends can be temporarily remedied by a hot oil treatment long enough for some new growth to roll in.
Don't follow every hair trend. I've been a "Long hair connoisseur" for some time, and i've seen every hair fad come and go from fabric softener to horse lotion. Before you jump on a hair bandwagon, get your regimen straight FIRST. because nothing else matters if you can't retain your length.
Keep it simple sistah: your regimen doesn't have to be super complex. stick to the 3c's (http://www.longhairdontcare.net/long_hair_dont_care-deleted-2009062...) you will be fine. Simpler is better, trust me! especially in the beginning. you don't want to overwhelm yourself and then give up before you even try.
Get educated- As much as i love this site, it's pretty much the blind leading the blind around here. i mean, it's hard to separate real information from people who just heard "they auntie and em" say something about making your hair care. visit www.longhaircareforum.com if you really want to learn about hair care. The have a $7 membership fee to post in the forum (which explains why everyone on these is really passionate about hair care, and not just passing through.) but it costs NOTHING to just lurk around the message boards and soak up the info.
Don't be a product junkie. over time you will learn what your hair likes, but in the meantime be informed when buying your hair products. know what you need before you walk into the store so the shiny labels don't beguile you. and KNOW what ingredients you should be avoiding (mineral oil, petroleum, silicone, sulfate, etc)
Spread the knowledge! In most cases it takes just weeks to get healthy hair, and months (maybe a year or two) to get the length you desire. Every girl deserves to have long beautiful hair. so tell your friends what you know, and let's shatter the myth that black girls can't have long hair.
Apr 11, 2011
Monday & Tuesday
Monday
I didn't do anything because my Hair was still greasy from Sunday. I have to stop using so much Castor Oil.
Tuesday
Sprayed hair with Motions Nourish leave in
It was still moisturizer so no oil
Did Baggy method on entire head
from approx. 5:00pm-Overnight
I didn't do anything because my Hair was still greasy from Sunday. I have to stop using so much Castor Oil.
Tuesday
Sprayed hair with Motions Nourish leave in
It was still moisturizer so no oil
Did Baggy method on entire head
from approx. 5:00pm-Overnight
Apr 10, 2011
Sunday
I put ORS Replenishing Pak on and had it on approx, 10 min w/o heat
then sat under Dryer for 20 minutes
Cowashed with Suave Tropical Coconut
Applied NTM
Dried w Scarf method
Mixed a new oil to seal with and it is
Indian Hemp Oil/EVOO/EVCO and JBCO
Let's see what results I get from this mixture. I call it Indievococo
I m&s'd my Hair w WN and seal w my Oil mix
Applied JBCO to my Scalp
Tied down with Scarf
then sat under Dryer for 20 minutes
Cowashed with Suave Tropical Coconut
Applied NTM
Dried w Scarf method
Mixed a new oil to seal with and it is
Indian Hemp Oil/EVOO/EVCO and JBCO
Let's see what results I get from this mixture. I call it Indievococo
I m&s'd my Hair w WN and seal w my Oil mix
Applied JBCO to my Scalp
Tied down with Scarf
Apr 9, 2011
Saturday
I did not fully M&S again today. Still nicely moisturized.Applied EVCO & JBCO to Scalp in sections and Baggyed my entire Hair. Then covered down with Scarf
April 7th & April 8th,2011
Hair was already moisturized this day and the day before so I didn't M&S either day
Apr 7, 2011
Thursday
I'm hating the way my hair feels and I now it's because of that JBCO I used yesterday. Instead of oiling my scalp while I m&s'd, I did it after. NEver again. I swear I'm about to go Co wash it again. I really hate this feeling!
I washed all that goo out of my hair!I co washed it. I put the Moist. conditionr on and just showered for about 15 minutes,then I washed it out. My hair feels so much lighter. So now I know, DO NOT USE TOO MUCH JAMAICAN BLACK CASTOR OIL!If you do it'll weigh your Hair down.
M&s'd with ORS Moist Lotion(Blah) and EVOO
put JBCO on my Scalp
I washed all that goo out of my hair!I co washed it. I put the Moist. conditionr on and just showered for about 15 minutes,then I washed it out. My hair feels so much lighter. So now I know, DO NOT USE TOO MUCH JAMAICAN BLACK CASTOR OIL!If you do it'll weigh your Hair down.
M&s'd with ORS Moist Lotion(Blah) and EVOO
put JBCO on my Scalp
Apr 6, 2011
Trim Time
My ends were looking scraggly ,so I did a trim today. Last trim was about the enod of February
I m&s'd my hair with WN and sealed w Indian Hemp Oil + EVCO. Still seeing breakage. Annoyed even though it's not as much as before.
I m&s'd my hair with WN and sealed w Indian Hemp Oil + EVCO. Still seeing breakage. Annoyed even though it's not as much as before.
Wednesday *Wash Day*
I woke up to some moist hair! haha, the baggying of course. My hair was so heavy and sticky, but to be expected because I used alot of JBCO last night knowing that my Wash day was today.
Pre-Poo- conditioner w Mane/Tail+EVCO w Heat 20 min
Shampoo w NTM Shampoo
DC w Suave Tropical Coconut conditioner w Heat 30 min
Applied NTM Leave in
Dry w Scarf method
Moisturized with Wave Nouveau Finishing Lotion and sealed with Indian Hemp Oil+EVCO
Pre-Poo- conditioner w Mane/Tail+EVCO w Heat 20 min
Shampoo w NTM Shampoo
DC w Suave Tropical Coconut conditioner w Heat 30 min
Applied NTM Leave in
Dry w Scarf method
Moisturized with Wave Nouveau Finishing Lotion and sealed with Indian Hemp Oil+EVCO
Apr 5, 2011
April 4th,Monday and Tuesday
Yesterday I still had in my 2 strand twists so I just moisturized at night w ORS Moisturizing Lotion and sealed with Indian Hemp Oil + EVCO and then tied down for the Night.
Today since I know tomorrow is wash day,I'm going to saturate my scalp with JBCO after M&S'ing my Hair. I noticed today that I have some buildup in my hair.That never happened before and I think it's because I moisturized and sealed with the 2 strand Twists and that's what caused it to flake. Gross, anyway, not doing braidouts or 2 strand twists.I'm too lazy and as easy as they were to put in, I just don't have the patience.I'll be doing fat plaits ,French rolls,French braids, buns for my Protective Styling. I attempted to just m&s and oil the scalp w JBCO and tie it w Scarf, but Ireally over did it w the Oil,so I decided to baggy my head and put a fresh scarf over the plastic caps(2)
Need this week:
Plastic Bobby pins to pin up my hair
Wave Nouveau
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Moisturizer (the big one)
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Shampoo
Today since I know tomorrow is wash day,I'm going to saturate my scalp with JBCO after M&S'ing my Hair. I noticed today that I have some buildup in my hair.That never happened before and I think it's because I moisturized and sealed with the 2 strand Twists and that's what caused it to flake. Gross, anyway, not doing braidouts or 2 strand twists.I'm too lazy and as easy as they were to put in, I just don't have the patience.I'll be doing fat plaits ,French rolls,French braids, buns for my Protective Styling. I attempted to just m&s and oil the scalp w JBCO and tie it w Scarf, but Ireally over did it w the Oil,so I decided to baggy my head and put a fresh scarf over the plastic caps(2)
Need this week:
Plastic Bobby pins to pin up my hair
Wave Nouveau
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Moisturizer (the big one)
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Shampoo
Apr 3, 2011
Product Ingredient Information Part 3-Proteins
Proteins
An additional note about proteins: some curly hair types, especially those with a coarse hair texture, are also sensitive to proteins, which can cause some curly hair to become dry and brittle. They are best avoided if any adverse effects are noted.
Common protein ingredients include:
Collagen
Hydrolyzed Collagen Protein
Hydrolyzed Silk Protein
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Keratin
Keratin Amino Acids
Silk Amino Acids
Silk Protein
Soy Protein
Wheat Amino Acids
Wheat Protein
An additional note about proteins: some curly hair types, especially those with a coarse hair texture, are also sensitive to proteins, which can cause some curly hair to become dry and brittle. They are best avoided if any adverse effects are noted.
Common protein ingredients include:
Collagen
Hydrolyzed Collagen Protein
Hydrolyzed Silk Protein
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Keratin
Keratin Amino Acids
Silk Amino Acids
Silk Protein
Soy Protein
Wheat Amino Acids
Wheat Protein
Product Ingredient Information Part 2-Silicones
Silicones
Silicones generally end in -cone, -conol, -col, or -xane and are found in many hair products. If any silicone name has the abbreviation "PEG" or "PPG" in front of it, however, it is water-soluble and will not build up.
Silicones that are not soluble in water, will consistently build up on the hair and will require a surfactant-based shampoo to remove include:
Cetearyl Methicone
Cetyl Dimethicone
Dimethicone
Dimethiconol
Stearyl Dimethicone
Silicones that are not soluble in water, but whose chemical properties allow it to repel further deposit, helping to prevent buildup (although they will still lock moisture out of the hair and require a surfactant to remove):
Amodimethicone
Cyclomethicone/Cyclopentasiloxane
Trimethylsilylamodimethicone
A note about amodimethicone: if you do an Internet search on amodimethicone, you will find quite a few sites that list amodimethicone as a silicone that is "slightly" soluble in water as long as two additional ingredients are included in the formulation:
Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-12 (and) Cetrimonium Chloride (as a mixture in the bottle)
The assumption has always been that the inclusion of Trideceth-12 (a nonionic surfactant) and cetrimonium chloride (a cationic surfactant) render the amodimethicone, non-water soluble on its own, slightly soluble in water and it could be considered okay to use. Turns out that has been a completely incorrect assumption. What the Trideceth-12 and cetrimonium chloride do is render the amodimethicone dispersible in water. Once the amodimethicone is deposited onto the hair shaft and dries to a film, however, it is not water-soluble, will prevent moisture from getting into the hair shaft and will require a surfactant to remove.
Silicones that are slightly soluble in water, but can possibly build up on some types of hair over time, include:
Behenoxy Dimethicone
Stearoxy Dimethicone
Silicones that are soluble in water and can generally be considered safe to use (in addition to those listed with "PEG" or "PPG" in front of them) include:
Dimethicone Copolyol
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Hydroxypropyl Polysiloxane
Lauryl Methicone Copolyol
Silicones generally end in -cone, -conol, -col, or -xane and are found in many hair products. If any silicone name has the abbreviation "PEG" or "PPG" in front of it, however, it is water-soluble and will not build up.
Silicones that are not soluble in water, will consistently build up on the hair and will require a surfactant-based shampoo to remove include:
Cetearyl Methicone
Cetyl Dimethicone
Dimethicone
Dimethiconol
Stearyl Dimethicone
Silicones that are not soluble in water, but whose chemical properties allow it to repel further deposit, helping to prevent buildup (although they will still lock moisture out of the hair and require a surfactant to remove):
Amodimethicone
Cyclomethicone/Cyclopentasiloxane
Trimethylsilylamodimethicone
A note about amodimethicone: if you do an Internet search on amodimethicone, you will find quite a few sites that list amodimethicone as a silicone that is "slightly" soluble in water as long as two additional ingredients are included in the formulation:
Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-12 (and) Cetrimonium Chloride (as a mixture in the bottle)
The assumption has always been that the inclusion of Trideceth-12 (a nonionic surfactant) and cetrimonium chloride (a cationic surfactant) render the amodimethicone, non-water soluble on its own, slightly soluble in water and it could be considered okay to use. Turns out that has been a completely incorrect assumption. What the Trideceth-12 and cetrimonium chloride do is render the amodimethicone dispersible in water. Once the amodimethicone is deposited onto the hair shaft and dries to a film, however, it is not water-soluble, will prevent moisture from getting into the hair shaft and will require a surfactant to remove.
Silicones that are slightly soluble in water, but can possibly build up on some types of hair over time, include:
Behenoxy Dimethicone
Stearoxy Dimethicone
Silicones that are soluble in water and can generally be considered safe to use (in addition to those listed with "PEG" or "PPG" in front of them) include:
Dimethicone Copolyol
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Hydroxypropyl Polysiloxane
Lauryl Methicone Copolyol
Product Ingredient Information Part 1-Sulfates
Sulfates
A surfactant—sometimes referred to as a detergent—is a substance that, when dissolved in water, gives a product the ability to remove dirt from surfaces such as the human skin, textiles, and other solids. There are several different types of surfactants, ranging from harsh to mild, with sulfates belonging to the class that is the most harsh.
Common sulfates as found on hair product ingredient bottles include:
Alkylbenzene Sulfonate
Ammonium Laureth or Lauryl Sulfate
Ammonium or Sodium Xylenesulfonate
Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
Ethyl PEG-15 Cocamine Sulfate
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
Sodium Laureth, Myreth, or Lauryl Sulfate
Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
Some milder surfactants—less drying and recommended in lieu of sulfates—include:
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Coco Betaine
Cocoamphoacetate
Cocoamphodipropionate
Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate or Cocoamphodipropionate
Lauroamphoacetate
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
A surfactant—sometimes referred to as a detergent—is a substance that, when dissolved in water, gives a product the ability to remove dirt from surfaces such as the human skin, textiles, and other solids. There are several different types of surfactants, ranging from harsh to mild, with sulfates belonging to the class that is the most harsh.
Common sulfates as found on hair product ingredient bottles include:
Alkylbenzene Sulfonate
Ammonium Laureth or Lauryl Sulfate
Ammonium or Sodium Xylenesulfonate
Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
Ethyl PEG-15 Cocamine Sulfate
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
Sodium Laureth, Myreth, or Lauryl Sulfate
Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
Some milder surfactants—less drying and recommended in lieu of sulfates—include:
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Coco Betaine
Cocoamphoacetate
Cocoamphodipropionate
Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate or Cocoamphodipropionate
Lauroamphoacetate
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
Sunday **Co Wash Day**
I applied Tropical Coconut Conditioner + a little EVCO on my hair. Put on Plastic cap
Sat under dryer for 20 minutes
Co washing withHerbal Essences LTRelationship Conditioner. This has Hydrolized Silk!!! a Protein!! NO NO NO!!! So I'm not using this for Cowashes any longer.
So will use Herbal Escapes Balancing Conditioner-Sun Kisses Raspberry
Applied Leave In NTM and Motions Nourish(this also contains Proteins cutting usage soon)
Scarf dried
Moisturized with ORS Moisturizing Hair Lotion and Sealed with Indian Hemp Oil+EVCO
did 2 strand twists.
Applied JBCO to scalp in sections.
Sat under dryer for 20 minutes
Co washing with
So will use Herbal Escapes Balancing Conditioner-Sun Kisses Raspberry
Applied Leave In NTM and Motions Nourish(this also contains Proteins cutting usage soon)
Scarf dried
Moisturized with ORS Moisturizing Hair Lotion and Sealed with Indian Hemp Oil+EVCO
did 2 strand twists.
Applied JBCO to scalp in sections.
Apr 2, 2011
April 1st and 2nd
I lightly put a dime size of NTMoisture Leave In and it was good to go on the 1st
Today the 2nd I sprayed my hair with Water, used a little NTMoisture and that's it.
Today the 2nd I sprayed my hair with Water, used a little NTMoisture and that's it.
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